St Francis Way in Umbria: from Rome to Assisi - La Via di Francesco

Leaving the Sacred Valley, the route starts from the Sanctuary of Poggio Bustone and enters Umbria.
The main difficulty of the stage is the ascent, at times steep, to the Beech Tree of Saint Francis, but the effort is rewarded by the powerful presence of this ancient tree, at whose base one can stop for a rest.
Legend has it that, in this place, the Poor Man of Assisi was suddenly caught in a violent storm. Francis sought shelter under a beech tree, which miraculously bent its branches like an umbrella. What is certain is that, after the long climb, even today pilgrims cannot resist stopping at the foot of this majestic tree, as shown by the many objects left hanging from its branches.
For the rest of the stage, the walk continues along very pleasant paths and mule tracks, accompanied by splendid views over Lakes Lungo and Ripasottile and the Rieti Plain.
Along the route lies the small village of Labro, an excellent place for a stop.
From above and in the distance, the Castle of Piediluco comes into view, while the path continues on flat terrain towards the village.
Welcoming the pilgrim is Lake Piediluco, often immortalized by artists of the Grand Tour, where the Sanctuary preserves the memory of the passage of the Patron Saint of Italy and of ecology.

The route starts with a gradual climb and continues on flat ground amidst hornbeam trees and chestnut trees, without any changes in direction, crossing the Prati di Stroncone. Along the way, you will find a few tombstones in the places associated with the passage of San Bernardino of Siena, put there by the Franciscans of Stroncone. After reaching the little chapel of Madonna del Tresto, rich with votive offerings, you continue on along the path, which crosses the tarmac road in various points, until you reach the church of Madonna di Colleponte. In less than 1 km, you will arrive at Piazza della Libertà in Stroncone and shortly after also the Sanctuary of St Francis of Assisi. The route continues on towards Terni and in the shade of the valley with views of the countryside. Once you have arrived in the outskirts of the city of Terni, you will reach the Basilica of San Valentino, the patron saint of lovers all over the world and also of the city of Terni. In this place, the saint's Holy Body is still preserved and it is the original place in which he was buried in the 3rd century AD.

From here, once you have crossed the bridge over the Nera River, you continue on until you reach the Cathedral of Terni and then the church of St Francis. From Terni, the St Francis Way joins the Path of the Franciscan Promartyrs and to the Way of Saint Valentine.

You set off from Terni in the direction of Assisi. The path will lead us from the flat ground of the city of Terni to the silent, green valley of the Nera River until we reach the spectacular Marmore Waterfalls.

The first stretch leaving the city crosses the urban outskirts and, in less than 6 km, leaves behind the city’s hustle and bustle to return to the natural landscapes of Umbria. The route gradually climbs up to the locality of San Liberatore, following minor, low-traffic roads. Upon reaching the Pennarossa Belvedere, a pleasant descent begins towards the Marmore Waterfall, which appears in the distance before the pilgrim’s eyes.
Note: at the time of writing, Trail no. 4 Pennarossa is closed due to a landslide (check the official Marmore Waterfall website for updates).
A visit to the Marmore Waterfall and its park, rich in hiking trails, is recommended (check water release times). Pilgrims carrying a credential are entitled to a reduced-price ticket.
From the lower entrance of the Waterfall, the route crosses Ponte Canale and follows a delightful rural dirt road that climbs gently alongside the flowing waters of the Nera River. Further on, the route rejoins the path coming from Lake Piediluco towards the village of Arrone, one of Italy’s Most Beautiful Villages. This section of the stage, winding through narrow rocky valleys with the Nera River guiding the pilgrim, is very easy and pleasant.

This leg of the journey is 13 km long and it is nature that evokes the memory of St Francis: walking constantly in the company of Sister Water, that, as St Francis said, "è multo utile et humile et preziosa et casta" (is very useful and humble and precious and chaste). Setting off from the sublime scenery of Lake Piediluco, you walk along the banks of the Velino river, with its waters creating the spectacular sight of the Marmore Waterfalls, among the highest in Europe. The waterfalls represent the spectacle of nature and the wisdom of man. To visit them, you can enter from above and walk along the trails with spectacular views of the Marmore Waterfalls.The route continues on flat ground between fields and along the cool currents of the Nera river, after which you enter the area of the River Park. Enjoy your walk that will take you to the village of Arrone, one of the 100 most beautiful villages in Italy. The route is not difficult and will help relax your weary muscles before the challenging leg from Ceselli to Spoleto.

The St Francis Way starts from the collegiate church of Santa Maria Assunta in Arrone and is a pleasant walk along the narrow valley of the Nera river. You proceed on flat ground, with the rocky outcrops of the mountains sloping down to the valley on the right and the clear waters of the river on the left. In the distance, Ferentillo appears with its two castles, Precetto and Materella, which face each other from the mountains of Sant'Angelo and Gabbio. The little village is worth stopping at in order to visit the unusual "Museum of Mummies” situated in the crypt of the church of Santo Stefano.  It is said that, among the mummies, the bodies of two oriental pilgrims who were transiting through Umbria are preserved. After leaving the village, you walk along the valley until, on the mountainside on the other side of the river, you notice the abbey of San Pietro in Valle, with its impressive bell tower. For those who have time, it is definitely worth making a detour to see this place. The abbey contains exceptionally beautiful works of art. Quite soon, you will reach Ceselli, which stands on a gentle hillside beyond the river.

You set off from Ceselli and, after having crossed the valley of Pontuglia, a long and challenging climb begins, taking you 8 km to the Castelmonte crossing. In several stretches, the slope is significant and you need to proceed at a slow and constant pace, enjoying the beauty of the woods and the splendid views of the Nera Valley. You go through the alleys of the ghost town of Sensati. Your arrival in the sacred forest of Monteluco, where the hermitage of St Francis is located, is a taste of the joy you will feel upon arrival in Assisi. The place is so fascinating that it deserves a pause for thought and a visit to the convent's rough little cells.The route is downhill from here to Spoleto. The path is dotted with pretty buildings and numerous hermitages, originally inhabited by Syrian hermits: the hermitages of San Girolamo and Delle Grazie and the church of San Paolo Protoeremita. The descent is steep at times with large steps. At the end, you reach the Ponte delle Torri (Bridge of Towers), which joins the town to its forest and almost gives you a sensation of vertigo when you cross it. Once you have reached the foot of the Rocca Albornoziana, the Cathedral of Spoleto is a only short distance away, with its magnificent façade, in which one of the very rare original letters written by St Francis is kept. The city, already capital of the Lombard Duchy, is worthy of a visit for its rich heritage of art and monuments.

This leg is simple at the beginning, but with some steep slopes. Departing from the Cathedral of Spoleto, leaving the old town centre behind, you walk along the Via delle Mura Ciclophiche (Cyclopean Walls). In the first stretch, we recommend you make a short detour and visit the Basilica of San Salvatore, which was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Property, as an exceptional example of artistic heritage from the Lombard period. The path continues on along secondary roads fortified by oak trees, thus leaving the city traffic behind and entering into the countryside. The landscape has changed: from the wooded mountains of the Valnerina valley, you are now walking on flat ground, alongside the slopes of olive groves, on which you can see Trevi and Assisi, while on the opposite side you can see the Martani mountains and the town of Montefalco.The uphill climb begins, towards the villages of Eggi and Bazzano, Lower and Upper, where tables and benches invite you stop for a refreshing break. You walk downhill and through the fields and meadows and following the signposts alongside a large forest of Aleppo pines. It is a pleasant walk along an easy trail and, in the distance, you can see the bell tower of the church of Poreta. Once you have reached the tarmac road, you need to pay attention: the signs tell you to go uphill to the right to get to the castle of Poreta, which deserves a visit due to the splendid view. Alternatively, without paying attention to the signs, you can go left, downhill in the direction of the bell tower, and you will soon reach the lower part of Poreta.

You walk along dirt roads surrounded by the landscape of olive trees, with a few stretches on secondary roads. Along the way, you come across the village of Campello Alto with its distinctive walls. Here, the convent of the Barnabite Order stands, devoted to meditation and silence. You continue uphill along a little stony road that climbs steeply through the olive trees as far as the Franciscan Hermitage, Eremo delle Allodole, where a Franciscan community lives, according to the principles of their founder, sister Maria. Beyond the gate, there is a small wood and the hermitage and a cave, where St Francis passed, according to legend (you are kindly invited to respect the hours in which silence and prayer are observed).The route continues on with several uphill and downhill stretches, until you see the village of Bovara in the distance, with the Church of San Pietro, where the vision of Fra' Pacifico took place. You continue on uphill until you reach Trevi, perched on a hill. Before you reach the village, it is worth stopping to see the church of Madonna delle Lacrime. The ancient village deserves a visit, particularly the Museum Complex of St Francis, in which you will find the Museum of the Civilisation of the Olive, the Archaeological Museum, the church with a splendid sixteenth century organ and the Art Gallery, where you can admire a touching Madonna with Child by Pinturicchio.

This leg of the journey is simple: only during the last stretch before Foligno you walk along a busy road with traffic, where you need to be careful. The great day on which you will reach Assisi is getting closer. Leaving the old town centre of Trevi and the Convent of San Martino behind you, you set off downhill along a trail that leads to the town of Collecchio. Continuing on along the terraces of olive trees, step by step you descend to the valley. The route in the countryside alternates tarmac road and dirt road, but it is always in the sun (so remember your sun hat and a supply of water).You continue on, slightly downhill, passing several beautiful Marian aedicule, a distinctive element of the Umbrian countryside. In the locality of San Clemente, you come across a rural parish church, standing on a hillside covered with olive trees. This pleasant place invites you to stop and rest. Soon you will reach Porta Romana and the old town centre of Foligno. Walking along the elegant Corso Cavour you reach the famous square in which the Cathedral of San Feliciano stands and where a plaque reminds you that St Frances, still a merchant at the time, sold his father's fabrics in this place, to renovate the church of San Damiano.

Se l'attesa per l'arrivo spinge ad accelerare il passo, il consiglio è di rallentare per godere appieno l'ultima parte del cammino. Si parte dallaCattedrale di Folignoe si attraversa laPiazza San Giacomo, con la chiesa omonima dedicata al santo protettore dei pellegrini, si prosegue per oltrepassare il ponte sul fiume Topino. Dopo un tratto di circa 6 km su strade secondarie si entra a Spello, attraversando la monumentale porta Consolare.La cittadina merita una sosta, per la ricchezza delle sue opere d'arte. Da Spello si può decidere se affrontare ilpercorso escursionistico, più duro, ma quasi interamente nei boschi del parco regionale del monte Subasio, oppure seguire il piacevole cammino sulla mezzacosta. Per seguire quest'ultimo, si esce dalla città attraverso porta Montanara e poi si cammina con serenità sulle pendici del monte Subasio lungo la Via degli Ulivi. Una sola salita, ma agevole, e poi in Assisi si riuniscono i passi di Francesco a quelli di Chiara. Si raggiunge, infatti, prima laBasilica di Santa Chiarae poi quella di San Francesco.Infine, la ricompensa del cammino sarà quella di fermarsi nella penombra dellaBasilica Inferiore, davanti allaTomba di San Francesco. Il cammino prosegue in discesa verso laBasilica di Santa Maria degli Angeli, all'interno della quale si conserva laPorziuncola, luogo dove sorse la prima comunità francescana.Numerosissimi i luoghi di Francesco in Assisi e nei dintorni, è necessario fermarsi almeno una giornata per avere il tempo di visitarli e meditare.

The first part of the journey, from Foligno to Spello, coincides with the Foligno - Assisi leg. You leave Spello through Porta Montanara and continue on along Via Bulgarella. After the water fountain, where it is useful to fill your water bottle, you walk uphill to the left on a dirt road. A long ascent begins, with steep stretches, on which you should proceed using the slow pace of the pilgrim. The route is well marked out and proceeds along a dirt road surrounded by olive groves (in summer, be careful of the sun). You walk through the forests of Monte Subasio until you reach the top of the great mountain, which rewards you for your efforts with one of the most beautiful views of the entire Way. From the summit, you go down towards the Eremo delle Carceri, a hermitage and one of the places most dear to pilgrims. Reaching this place on foot offers a taste of the joy that you will feel when you reach the Basilica. You continue down a slope that borders the Rocca Minore of Assisi, known as the Rocchicciola. Once you have reached Piazza Matteotti, you cross the medieval roads of Assisi. Access to the tomb of St Francis is through the great portal of the Lower Basilica of St Francis and, after numerous days of walking, you can finally put down your backpack. This is the end of the journey and, after a visit to the tomb of St Francis, you can celebrate the joy of reaching your destination. There are numerous places of St Francis of Assisi here and in the surrounding areas, so you need to stay at least a day in order to have time to visit them and meditate.